Sungai Perak, our River of Life

Pristine and peaceful Sungai Perak

The boat belonging to JWW Birch anchored on Sg Perak near Belanja, Parit.

Yesterday, I was part of the crowd that gathered to see the PM launch the River of Life Project in KL. The project aims to revitalize the city's dirty rivers and transform the Klang and Gombak rivers into iconic waterfronts on par with waterways in cities like Amsterdam, London and Paris by 2020.

As a town planner, I think this program is laudable.

But isn't it funny how we allow our beautiful natural rivers to be clogged with rubbish and filled with foul effluents in the first place, only to spend billions to reclaim it?

The only plus point is that, according to the PM, this project is expected to contribute RM11 billion to the country's GDP until 2020.Which is good for the nation's economy and the creation of employment.

My late father hails from from Layang-Layang Kiri in Parit, Perak. He was born a stone's throw away from the banks of Sungai Perak. Even though I myself have not even once swum in the mighty Sungai Perak, Apak used to recount tales of how he would swim across the river and back with his friends just for the fun of it. He would tell us stories of how Atok would take his sampan to lead his buffaloes to the small islands which litter the centre of the river where the buffaloes are kept. And how he would spend hours by the river bank till the sun sets, fishing with his buddies.

It is stories like these from my father that makes me captivated with Sungai Perak and rivers in general.

Sungai Perak is, of course, the second longest river in the Peninsula running for about 400km from Hulu Perak down to Bagan Datoh before meeting the Straits of Malacca. Its history is very much intertwined with the history and development of the State of Perak.

The beginning of the current sultanate of Perak can be traced to the event when a descendent of the old Malacca royal family returned to the Peninsula from Sumatera when his entourage landed at Beting Beras Basah near Bagan Datoh in 1528. From there his flotilla sailed upstream along Sungai Perak to set up goverment. He was throned as the Sultan of Muzzafar Shah I, and chose a location on the bank of the river called Tanah Abang in Mukim Bota as his seat of government.

Since then, all sultans of Perak have their seats of government located by the Sungai Perak. There have been 15 of them to date including places like Kota Lama Kanan, Bota and Pulau Cempaka Sari. The current sultan has his seat at Bukit Chandan, Kuala Kangsar.

We are lucky because Sungai Perak is still clean and pristine. Perhaps it's got to do with it being such a big river. But if we aren't careful, with uncontrolled logging and large scale land clearance for development, even a river of this size might succumb to over development and deteriorate in its health.

Although I have not swum in Sungai Perak like Apak, I did have the opportunity to take the Perak River Safari boat ride from Kuala Kangsar to Pulau Cempaka Sari in Parit. I was treated to the sight of quaint riverside villages, buffaloes, monkeys and various flora and fauna of the tropical rain forest that reach down to the water's edge. Fascinating.

As I soaked in the experience, I imagined tracing the journey of the royal flotilla. And I imagined how Apak had swum and played in this beautiful river. And I felt that, whatever happens, Sungai Perak has got to be maintained in its present beauty and splendour.

It is the River of Life for Perak.

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Ipoh 'revisited'

The grand Padang Ipoh

Ipoh Town Hall building

St Michael's Institution

I had the chance to spend the early part of this week in my hometown, Ipoh, to attend a budget review retreat.

Staying and working in KL, it is not very often that I get the opportunity to be in Ipoh during weekdays. Usually, when I go back to visit Emak, I would set off from KL early Saturday mornings. Then by the Sunday afternoon it’s a rush back to KL.

The three days I spent there this time gave me the chance to see Ipoh a bit more and reminisce about old times. The times spent there during childhood.

You know, I may be biased (obviously) but seriously I think Ipoh is the best city in Malaysia to stay in. Ipoh still has that laid-back and relaxed atmosphere. It has lots of greeneries – the biggest parks being the Taman D.R. Seenivasagam (or the Coronation Park as it was originally known as) and of course the Padang Ipoh (with a field that is so green and well kept till today). The traffic is still manageable. The locals are still friendly enough and have time to spare to chat with strangers. And I should add that the streets are clean and tidy, too.

Ipoh has a great history. Located right smack in the middle of tin-rich valley of the Kinta River, it was a town that tin built, so to speak. So much so that during the British Colonial era, Ipoh was the second city of Malaysia. Many rich and famous (mainly rich) must have rode their gleaming British-built cars up and down its grid-iron laid-out roads in those days.

Up until a few years ago, if you were to arrive into Ipoh from the south (from KL direction) via the Federal Highway Route 1, as you approach its outskirt (just before reaching Sungei Rokam/Sungai Raya) you would have noticed a very big, three-pointed Mercedes Benz star atop a limestone hill from afar.

There you have it…the ultimate status symbol of Ipoh.

The city boasts some awesome buildings and architecture from the colonial period which further adds to its grand stature and ambience. These include the magnificent St Michael's Institution, the Ipoh Railway Station, and the Ipoh Town Hall.

Perhaps a special mention is in order also for the not-so-grand but equally significant Masjid India. For this is where I used to visit quite a number of times with my Tok Hussein for prayers. I really looked forward to such trips. Why? Because after prayers To Hussein never missed to treat me to the nice, tasty cendol at the mamak cendol’s kiosk just across the road from the mosque, in front of the Padang Ipoh.

Things haven’t changed much in Ipoh from the 1980s. Not even from the 1970s, I would say.

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Sure some new buildings have sprung up here and there. Road systems have been changed a bit (more one way streets now). Some roads have been renamed too, including Ashby Road, where my alma mater (Sek Ren Jenis Kebangsaan Ashby Road) was located. But otherwise, it’s more or less the same old Ipoh as aptly captured by Lat (a local boy himself) in his comics.

Aahh, Ipoh…what a great place to retire, eh?

Menara Condong Telok Intan

The view from inside the tower looking out. Also visible is the bell of the clock

Not many heritage buildings in Malaysia can claim to be totally locally-influenced in terms of design. Many buildings which get recognition and put under conservation programs are British-influenced.

The Menara Condong in Telok Intan is one exception.

Okay, it is not local as in Malay/Nusantara design-oriented. But it sure is not western-influenced. It looks like being inspired by a pagoda.

The tower is 85 feet tall and was built in 1885 which makes it a grand 124 year old structure!

Its original function was as a water tower to store water for use during drought periods. But it also had a clock (which functions well till today) and thus was more popularly known back then as Jam Tinggi.

With Telok Intan being located by the mighty Sungai Perak, the tower witnessed numerous flooding whenever Sungai Perak burst its banks. These flooding took its toll on the tower and led it to become tilted over the years.

During the Japanese occupation, the tower was used by the Japanese Army as a watch tower. Today (according to the officer manning the entrance) the tower is under the jurisdiction of Jabatan Muzium dan Antikuiti with maintenance undertaken by Majlis Daerah Hilir Perak. It is the icon of Telok Intan and fully recognized as a tourist attraction.

Whenever you drive through Telok Intan, don’t forget to stop by and go up the tower. Enjoy it while it’s still there.

Perak's lack of identity: We need a Yeob Goneng

I am sure by now many of you would have heard, or read, about the book “Growing Up In Terengganu” (GUiT). It is written by Wan A. Hulaimi aka Awang Goneng.

I have not read the book yet. However, I have read and heard a lot about it from my Terengganu friends.

GUiT is a collection of tales on growing up in a Malaysian village in Terenganu and the sense of pride at being part of it. It is said to capture the very essence of life in Terengganu back in the 1960s and 70s.

My Terengganu friends – as expected – wax lyrical about the book. I can just see the glow in their eyes as they enthusiastically talk about it. Reading GUiT has undoubtedly managed to evoke a sense of nostalgia amongst them.

What’s more interesting is that GUiT has also rejuvenated and reinforced their sense of identity as Terengganu people. What with the book being sprinkled with Terengganu slang (or Terengganuspeak as Awang Goneng puts it), GUiT is a godsend for enhancing a sense of identity among the rakyat of the state.

Not surprisingly, the book is said to be something of a phenomenon, not least in Terengganu itself, where Awang Goneng was welcomed back for a book signing function at a bookshop.

I listened with a tinge of jealousy as my friend AO rattled on (bragged, actually) about his meeting with Awang Goneng at the bookshop. But it suddenly dawned on me: where is the Perak version of Awang Goneng? Or, if you don’t mind the pun, our very own “Yeob Goneng”.

Maybe it’s just me, but I for one think that there is a dearth of sense of identity and pride amongst us Perakian.

When we migrate to KL, for example, our character and identity will be ‘compromised’. And we’d easily drop the loghat Perak, so much so that we’d all be lost without a trace amongst the KL denizens. Unlike the Kelantanese, we do not much look out for, nor look after, each other either.

But then, even back home we do not have much to show to be proud of and bring us close together, is there? So, what’s new?

We don’t have a bustling city like George Town in the north and KL in down south. We don’t have mega projects that inject billions into the local economy. Nor do we have any major resorts, Taman Negara, international airshows or the monsoon cup to draw in the crowds.

*Yawn*…it’s all rather characterless and boring isn’t it? And to think that up until the 1970s Perak was still such a vibrant and bustling state.

That’s right, folks. Perak, at one time, was the world’s number one producer of tin ore in the whole wide world! In fact, the first people to own private cars in the country is said to be the super rich tin-miners from Perak. Yup! So, now you know why Perak cars are registered with the letter “A”.

As evidence of Perak being THE place to be back then, one could easily draw on the historical facts which reflect the level of development of the state in comparison to others in Malaya.

For example, the birth of the current-day Department of Survey and Mapping Malaysia (JUPEM) can be traced to Taiping where the first Trigonometrical Survey Section was created under the Perak Public Works Department.

The original batch of rubber seedlings brought into Malaya from London's Kew Gardens found its way to Kuala Kangsar, where till this day, the last surviving original rubber tree can still be seen at the district office.

The historical town of Taiping is famous for many firsts in the nation. This includes the first railway line (Taiping to Port Weld), museum, and hill resort (Bukit Larut).

The Taiping prison was the first purpose-built prison in Malaya. And of course, the Taiping Zoo, a fine zoo which runs till this day, was the first zoo in Malaya.

But when the tin mines started closing one by one, so went the great days. And, unfortunately, as other states re-fashion and rebrand themselves, Perak was stuck in a rut.

So, let’s bring back the glory days, shall we?

But, where art thou Yeob Goneng?

Interestingly, the answer to this question might be found on the cover of Awang Goneng’s book itself.

For on the cover of GUiT is a tag line by Dr. Annabel from the British Library which goes: “Awang Goneng does with words what Lat did with pictures.”

“Lat” here, of course, refers to our cartoonist Dato’ Lat who hails from Perak. Lat is now famous world wide for bringing to countless number of readers the joy of growing up and living in Malaysia.

In the Foreword to the book “Lat 30 Years Later”, Adibah Amin wrote of Lat: “ People from other lands have found in Lat a merry guide to Malaysian ways”. That being the case, in my reckoning, we will also find in Lat a merry guide to the Perak ways.

For one, Lat is adept at bringing to life the traditional and quirky ways of his home state. Browse through his record of the Perak Wedding, and you will know what I mean.

Lat also simply treasures the memory and nostalgia of his childhood days and living environment.

He has a deep attachment to his kampong roots. But his endearment towards live in the “big town” which opened him up to new experiences in life was equally strong. Two of his greatest works “The Kampong Boy” and “The Town Boy” are pure testimonies to this.

But what really convinces me that Lat is the Yeob Goneng is the fact that Lat can also write. His crime reporter days at the NST notwithstanding, one can sample his whimsical style of writing in his book-length cartoons.

Now, just imagine. Lat’s writing flair combined with his exquisite drawings of a rollicking world which is uniquely Perak in flavour. Boy, what a potent combination.

And it may not just be restricted to a full-length book or cartoons. Lat, with his creative imagination, can run riot and develop our very own theme park, theme resort and what have you.

Pesta durian and pesta tanglong ala Kota Lama Kanan will be featured strongly in the theme park. As for food, the park will be filled with the strong smell of gulai tempoyak and rendang tok all day long.

Now, how does that sound?

It’s a dream, yes. But I hope this dream could materialize.

How? I do not know yet.

Perhaps the Perak State government should sit up and take notice of the dire need to build up our character as a people. The need to create our sense of pride and identity as being Rakyat Perak.

For we should not leave Perak, for our future generations, devoid of history, culture, tradition as well as a strong sense of identity and character.