Stranded in Narita: Soaking up a Slice of Japan

The ubiquitous jidouhambaiki (vending machine). Japanese streets are littered with these machines
which sell almost anything that you might want

Japanese streets are clean and beautiful as it is simple in design

The sign reads "Narita-shi jdousha" (Narita City Car Park)

Urban street on the left, local residential street on the right

Off to school, no big bags to carry...?

The morning rush hour was just about to begin

We got stranded at Narita on our way back home from the USA. Our plane developed a technical problem, and the captain was not about to take the risk of continuing the journey to KLIA.

Replacement parts had to be flown out of KLIA, and it is a good seven hours flight to Narita. So we had  to put up for the night at a small hotel a few minutes away from the airport.

As someone who had studied and stayed in Japan before, the very idea of spending a night in Japan again was enough to get me a little excited.

It being summer, the sun had risen very early over Japan in the morning. Subuh was at 3.41 am! After a hurriedly taken breakfast, I told myself that I just had to go out and take a stroll to soak in bit of Japanese urban ambiance and breath in some fresh Japanese summer air.

The familiar scenes of nice clean streets, narrow neighbourhood roads, colourful vending machines and children walking to school instantly  brought back sweet memories of our three year stay in the Land of The Rising Sun.

Alas, it was not to be a long stroll. The weather was hot and temperature quickly rising even in the early morning. And my onward flight to KLIA was just three hours away. So I swiftly returned back to the hotel and reached my room sweating. But not after taking a few shots with the hand phone.

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Post Tsunami: Sendai on the way to revival

I received an email from an old friend, Toru Tanaka, from Sendai, Japan, recently. Sendai is the capital city for Miyagi Prefecture in Japan. It is a city of a million inhabitants. Quite recently, we also got to know Sendai (and its vicinities) as being the area worst hit by the tsunami which overwhelmed the east coast of Japan in March of this year.

One would surely recall the images of destruction played out umpteen times on the television when the earthquake hit the area, only to be swiftly followed right after that by the devastating tsunami. The physical, social and psychological damages to to this island nation have been deep and profound.

But if there is one thing I have learnt from my three year stay in the Land of the Rising Sun, it is that the Japanese are a disciplined, hardworking people with a strong sense of identity.

They will rebuild, recover and rise up again from the disaster. And I'm talking from experience. For I have seen how they've rebuilt Kobe after the Great Hanshin earthquake of 1995.

Being located 10km from the coast, the Sendai city centre itself is not much affected by the tsunami. But the outlying town and villages in the coastal areas were devastated and some have disappeared completely.

Some people are still staying in temporary housing as they still cannot afford to rebuild their homes. But the good news according to Tanaka-san is that the revival plan for Sendai City has been approved at the City Assembly last month. So, a full-scale revival of Sendai is just waiting to happen.

Incidentally, Tanaka-san just got married last September and is building a new life for himself too. He is also now in charge of managing the budget for the road planning program for Sendai.

The beautiful pictures of autumn Japan above were emailed to me by Tanaka-san. It makes me miss Japan. Very much.

Things Japanese (4): Sendai Aoba-Matsuri

Sendai is the capital city of Miyagi Prefecture in Japan. The city was founded around 1600 by the daimyo Date Masamune and currently has a population of around 1 million.

Now, the Japanese just love festivals, or “matsuri” as it is called in Japanese. Most cities in Japan have their own special matsuri.

Sendai have a few local matsuri of its own.

The most famous is the Aoba Matsuri that attracts all the merry-making and dancing – typical Japanese festival traditions.

My friend, Toru Tanaka, who hails from Sendai is very proud of his city and the Aoba-Matsuri. Recently he wrote me a long and interesting email (with photos) describing the festival.

According to Tanaka-san, the Aoba-Matsuri started about 130 years ago as an annual festival of the Aoba-Jinja (Aoba Temple). The Aoba-Jinja was a shrine dedicated to Masamune Date who was the leader of the clan which had reigned over Sendai area for about 260 years since 1601.

But curiously, according to Tanaka-san, the festival was stopped about 30 years ago as traffic conditions got worse. Luckily for us, it was revived since 1985 as a festival for citizens of Sendai and to commemorate the 350th year of Masamune's death.

During the festival, many dance teams perform the 'Suzume-Odori” (sparrow dance). They dance to drums, bells, and flutes, with fans in both hands. Tanaka-san says that “the basic step is very easy, like this: put a foot in front of the other foot and repeat it by turns, lowering one's waist. However, each dance team will improvise and present a style of their own during performances”. Tanaka-san says the dance is “quite similar to samba”.

The dance is performed on the streets. During the night festival, a competition is held at the public square in front of the city hall. Usually there will also be a dance team of city officers. And they are quite good, too, as they have won first prize many times.

It is said that the original Suzume-Odori was first performed in 1603 by stonemasons from Osaka who came to Sendai to build a new castle. It was performed to celebrate the completion of the castle.

The dance was named ''Suzume-Odori” because the movements with fans and the rhythm is similar to sparrows picking at seeds. And it may also be connected with the fact that one of the emblem of the Date clan is made out in the shape of “sparrows and bamboos”.

After 130 years, now, the Aoba-Matsuri is a typical sight and sound of the spring season in Sendai. And from the photos sent to me by Tanaka-san, what a great and joyous occasion it is too.

Enjoy photos of this year’s Sendai Aoba-Matsuri taken by Tanaka-san (the commentaries are provided by Tanaka-san himself).

The basic style of SUZUME-ODORI

The drummers. Each team consist of flag-bearers, dancers, drummers, bell players and flute players

Let's make a pose!


There are many cute infant dancers. The dancers wear clothes like stonemasons. These childrens' wear are especially traditional style

A team of my co-workers. His team is famous but his team is not a city officer's team

My colleague. He really enjoys dancing

I found foreigners in some team. The woman in the center of the photo may come from Malaysia. I think there are many Malaysians in SENDAI, who is studying at TOHOKU Univ. the float behind the dancers is sponsored by SENDAI city

Polite dancers. They thanked the audience. They are a team of bank workers

Coming soon: aoba matsuri

Got an email from my good friend Tanaka-san from Japan, last Monday.

Tanaka-kun is from the historic city of Sendai in the north-east of Japan. He had a good story about an old Sendai tradition called Aoba Matsuri to tell me.

So, what is Aoba Matsuri?

Join me soon.

Cherry blossom season is here

Cherry blossoms flowered in Tokyo and two other prefectures in Japan last week. It signals the arrival of spring in Japan.

Without a doubt, spring is my favourite season in Japan. I like the cool, fresh, air. And I just love the smell of spring – the smell of an enchanting array of spring flowers, hmmmm…

But then autumn, too, has its own surreal beauty. And summer is full of zest and energy. And winter…oh, I give up. Each season has its own uniqueness. I love them all!

Back to cherry blossoms.

This year cherry blossoms, or sakura in Japanese, opened slightly earlier in Tokyo, in Shizuoka prefecture and in the southern prefecture of Kumamoto. You can read the report here.

I also wrote about the tradition of hanami (flower watching) in spring of last year. You can read it here.

Cycling: the adventure continues

Merida Matts SUB 40D


The pic above shows my new bike. Yes, just bought it a week ago.

So far, it has followed me everywhere daily. I put it in the trunk of my car and take it out when time, and weather, permits me to ride it.

To say that she's the new love of my life would be putting it a bit too strong. Besides, somehow I think it wouldn't go down too well with the Mem Besar.

So far I have gone on three rides with her, all right after work. I shall write about our little escapades together.

For now, I shall just give an intro to my 'cycling career'.

I started learning to ride when I was about 4 or 5 I think in Kampong Kepayang (where else), my maternal grandmother's place.

I remember there were two bikes at her house. One belonged to Tok Hussein which he used to ride to the mosque and around the kampong. This was an old Raleigh with a horizontal bar right across the frame (guy's bike).

The other was a normal (ladies bike) which was often used by my Makngah, I think. And this was the one which my brothers and I used to fight over to ride. After fighting off my brothers Mi and Man, I'd spend long happy hours riding around the kampong, excited at the new-found freedom that the bike afforded me. Sometimes, if I was feeling generous, I'd give them a ride.

When I studied in England I never went into cycling. The weather was to cold and windy for that. I kid you not. The windswept coast of Blackpool is not a place you'd want to cycle, especially during winter when the Irish Sea slams the town with rain and storms.

But when I furthered my studies in Japan I had the chance to renew my 'romance' with bikes, so to speak.

Japan is very bike friendly. But Tsukuba City, the place where my family and I stayed, was super-friendly. For, Tsukuba is a new town with properly laid out roads, as well as, pedestrian and cycling paths. Its heavan for cyclists.

The conducive environment means that people here cycle wherever and whenever they can. Professors, housewives, students, they all do it without any qualms whatsoever.

I remember after sending Sakinah and Syafiq to youchien (Japanese kindergarten) I would park my car at our home and rush to classes on a red bike. It was so easy. It was a breeze, literally, what with the cold, fresh morning air brushing against my face.

The quality in design of facilities and landscape treatment of course makes it a joy to ride. This is what we need more in Malaysia given our hot and humid climate. The other thing is of course a well-planned, integrated system which is barrier-free.

Let's hope more townships in Malaysia will be planned to be cyclists-friendly.

In the mean time, enjoy some photos of bike-friendly Tsukuba.




Tsukuba City Central Library is located along the main cycling route




Central Library bicycle parking area



Flea market on main cycling route


Bollards and proper crossing system



Maps along the routes



Crossing system

Happy New Year 2008: Lets go Japanese?

Nengajo: Japanese New Year Cards

Its end of December, and another New Year beckons.

On New Year’s night, thousands of Malaysians will throng the streets to party and celebrate the coming of the New Year.

Big corporate entities – and even a few government agencies – will be falling over each other to provide entertainment for the masses for the occasion (it’s CSR, lah*). Fireworks are a must. Concerts? Well…in Malaysia, it goes almost without saying.

Once the fireworks go quite, and after the last artist has belted out his last song, the entertained crowd will slowly head home. Tired and sleepy, no doubt. But hugely satisfied with the value-for-money (read: free) entertainment.

But after that, what?

I’m afraid, when it comes to welcoming the New Year, there is nothing much meaningful to it, for us Malaysians. It just comes and goes. Apart from the public holiday to look forward to on the day itself, it’s back to the usual daily grind after that. Nothing much will have changed.

But then, who am I to question these great celebratory events, which will be graced by no less than some of the top leaders of the nation and corporate big wigs?

So, let me just play safe. Let me take this opportunity to tell you something about Japanese New Year celebration instead.

The Japanese New Year is called oshogatsu in Japanese. Its date used to be determined based on the lunar year calendar. But the Japanese, being an adaptive lot, adopted the Gregorian calendar in 1873. So since then, the first day of January is the official New Year's Day.

The shogatsu is without a doubt the most important holiday in Japan. This is when the Japanese really take a break, rest and celebrate the holiday with the family. It is a day for eating and drinking together with the family, at home.

On the eve of New Year the Japanese will visit shrines to pray and pay respect to their ancestors. The New Year itself usually starts with whole family having traditional food, such as the ‘mochi’ (rice cake) for breakfast, in front of the television set which usually features traditional performing arts of Japan.

Then they would read the New Year greeting cards, or nengajō, that they have received. Before that, they will have sent cards to their own friends, relatives, work mates and bosses. The cards are sent so that they reach their recipients on 1st of January. And the ever-efficient Japan postal service duly oblige by taking extra special care during this time of the year to ensure all cards are delivered on January 1.

One thing I like about the Japanese New Year cards is that they are usually simple in design, and yet do the job just nicely. It’s a contrast to our normal greeting cards, which has a riot of colours and cluttered designs.

Some Japanese proudly make their own cards. But, being ever busy with university assignments (no sniggering, now!) I used to buy mine off the shelf at stationeries. Sometimes (well, most of the time actually), I would buy them at the post office where it’s much, much cheaper.

Like many other Asian New Year traditions, Japanese adults also give money to children on this auspices day. Akin to our ‘duit raya’ and ‘ang pow’, in Japan it is called ‘otoshi-dama’ which means ‘new year treasure’.

The New Year’s season lasts well over a week in Japan. Most of the shops will be closed. So if you do not do your shopping and stock up before the holidays, then you would find yourself in the unenviable situation of having nothing to cook for week! In Japan, for a family of five like mine, the costs would be enough to run me bankrupt.

But we take the cue from the highly-organised Japanese and take to the stores with a shopping list in hand a week before to buy enough items to last a week of cooking.

As for the New Year day itself, we’d stay at home eating mee-curry or spaghetti made by Mem Besar. To avoid the wintry cold outside, we’d be huddled in front of the television all day long, in the warmth of our small, but comfortable University family accommodation at Ichinoya Gakusei Shukusha.

But if it was snowing, then you won't find me at home. Instead, I would be frolicking in the snow with Sakinah, Syafiq and Anas somewhere in one of the parks in Tsukuba. Aahhh, such nice memories.

Wishing everybody lots of Happiness and Joy. Blessings for the New Year 2008.

And to all Japanese friends, Akemashite Omedetou Gozaimasu!


Note: * CSR – corporate social responsibility

Things Japanese (3): Bon-odori

The month of July is just around the corner. This is the month for Bon-odori.

Bon-odori simply means "bon dance" in Japanese. In the old days, bon-odori was a festival to respect and welcome back the departed spirits of ancestors.

Today however, bon-odori has evolved to be more of a summer dancing festival, marked by merry-making and dancing outdoors under the warm summer sky to the tune of traditional music and the beat of Japanese drums (taiko).

During bon-odori the Japanese will go out dressed in their yukata, i.e. the traditional summer kimono. The festival site shall be decorated with coloured lanterns, dancing stage and so on. Stalls selling all kinds of food from roasted corn to yakitori are set up. Everybody will be in a carnival mood.

In Malaysia, bon-odori is celebrated on a fairly large scale in Penang and Shah Alam. The celebration in Shah Alam is held at the Matsushita Sports Complex. It is usually very well attended by Japanese expatriates, as well as, many hungry Malaysians out to get themselves stuffed with Japanese food and drinks.

I have been to the Matsushita bon-odori twice with my family. For us, its a great opportunity to titillate our taste buds with Japanese food such as sushi, Japanese curry rice and some peculiar and exotic-sounding drinks like the Pocari Sweat!!

According to the Japan Embassy website this year's bon-odori in Shah Alam will be held on 14 July 2007. So, see ya' there!

Things Japanese (2): O-hanami

Spring is in the air!

In Japan, ‘tis the season for enjoying the cherry blossom. The cherry blossom, or sakura in Japanese, is the national flower of Japan. But more than that, it is a flower that has inspired countless poets to pen down praises, and painters to splash colours onto canvases, in this nation of art and nature lovers.

One activity which reflects their adoration of the sakura is none other than “hanami” which literally means "flower viewing". It refers to the Japanese traditional custom of enjoying the beauty of cherry blossoms.

As spring approaches, the opening of the flowers is keenly monitored by the whole nation, and a national "cherry blossom front" is closely charted as it slowly moves up the Japanese archipelago from Okinawa to Hokkaido.

The blossom forecast is announced by the weather bureau, and it is watched carefully by those planning hanami as the blossoms only last for one week.

The poor weather bureau folks really have their work cut out for them, though. Trying to predict when exactly flowers will blossom is hard enough. But when predictions go wrong, behold the wrath of the Japanese public!

A big hue and cry in the media is not uncommon as people complain of wrecked party plans and businesses affected as purchases of food, beverage, picnic equipments, photographic equipments etc. do not go as planned for.

No wonder the Japanese weather bureau people are always on tenterhooks come spring time.

But for the rest of the nation...its party time!

Groups of friends, office co-workers, etc. would head for the nearest parks, lay down some mats, and start the merry-making by singing and dancing.

In Tokyo, the most popular spots for this would be the Ueno Park, as well as the Sumida Park along both sides of the Sumida River.

Tsukuba, where I used to study, has its fair share of fine spots too, such as the Matsumi Park, Ninomiya Park, as well as within and around the University campus.

As it is highly likely that my professor could be one of those howling away under the cherry trees, this would often be the perfect moment for me to take time off from college and bring the family to enjoy the blossoming cherry trees - not to mention, to sample the antics of Japanese at play...

P.S.

More lovely photos of the current cherry blossom season in Japan (below) courtesy of my friend Fadjuri-san who is doing his Masters at the prestigous Tokyo University.

Things Japanese: The Bamboo

Japan is an economic giant second only to the United States. The Japanese are famous for their advanced technologies and their love of gadgetry. They are, after all, the people who have given us the Nikons, Sonys, Hondas and a long list of other household goods, motor vehicles and so on.
But for all their modern ways, the Japanese always have room for tradition and respect for culture.

For example, the good old bamboo plant which we find in abundance and left unnoticed in Malaysia, plays a very important part in the life of every Japanese. Bamboo, or take as it is called in Japanese, is used to make all sorts of things imaginable. Some of the more common uses are for making chopsticks and as foodstuff, i.e. the bamboo shoots. Others include baskets, fences, garden and street furniture, place mats, brooms, fans and vases. In the arts, bamboo features a lot as subjects in paintings.

Perhaps it is time that those people entrusted with promoting the development of our handicrafts take a long, hard look at our bamboos. Our tropical climate is a boon for bamboo cultivation and related industries.

Tsukuba University

Recently I received an e-mail from Akira Hosomi, a friend during my masters program study days at the University of Tsukuba.

Hosomi-san is now working in Vietnam and the e-mail was just to say hello. But the mail did sufficient enough to take me back through time to the days when I was at "Tsukuba-dai" as the university is popularly called in Japanese. Tsukuba-dai is a relatively new university, being brought into existence as part of an effort to create a new town outside of Tokyo for relocation of research organisations and institutions for higher learning.

Being a new town, Tsukuba City is a nice place to study and bring up a young family. It has parks and open space in abundance, it is clean and offers a peaceful living environment.

I was joined during my "three years sojourn" in Japan by my wife and three kids. I think they thoroughly enjoyed the experience.